An Icelandic waterfall? A Patagonian glacier? A sneak preview of “Game of Thrones” set? Nope , much easier : “Panská skála” or “Manor Rock” also called “Varhany“ (organ) is an impressive hillock in Prácheň, a small village 130 km north of Prague and a wonderful day trip through Melnik castle and the scenic road to Česká Lípa.
These picturesque amphitheatre of volcanic rocks are the result of a lava stream which emerged 30 million years ago from a depth of 30 km, forming pentagonal and hexagonal columns up to 20 meters in length. It constitutes one of the oldest natural reserves in Europe and a good aperitif to explore the natural wonders of nearby “České Švýcarsko” (Czech Switzerland) national park.
These picturesque amphitheatre of volcanic rocks are the result of a lava stream which emerged 30 million years ago from a depth of 30 km, forming pentagonal and hexagonal columns up to 20 meters in length. It constitutes one of the oldest natural reserves in Europe and a good aperitif to explore the natural wonders of nearby “České Švýcarsko” (Czech Switzerland) national park.
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On our epic quest to visit all the 348 (and growing) breweries of the Czech Republic we ventured to the far north of the Country, deep into the former “Sudetenland”: a land of deep forests and turbulent historic memories.
Before WW2, the northern, southwest, and western border regions of Czechoslovakia were inhabited principally by German-speaking people, which left a peculiar signature in the typical flint roofs, triple wooden arches and decorated facades of the country houses, and a plethora of magnificent bourgeois villa. The area was particularly rich due to mines and advanced glass factories, where some of the best examples of the “Bohemian crystals” were produced, mostly for international markets.
Before WW2, the northern, southwest, and western border regions of Czechoslovakia were inhabited principally by German-speaking people, which left a peculiar signature in the typical flint roofs, triple wooden arches and decorated facades of the country houses, and a plethora of magnificent bourgeois villa. The area was particularly rich due to mines and advanced glass factories, where some of the best examples of the “Bohemian crystals” were produced, mostly for international markets.
The region was the focus of a particularly tense border dispute with ambitions Nazi Germany, which induced the Czechoslovak government to build thousands of infantry and artillery bunkers all along the border during 1936-1938, mostly hidden in dense forests.
Following the infamous Munich Agreement of 1938, Nazi Germany formally annexed Sudetenland and these technically advanced military structures were untouched. Some bunkers were partially destroyed by the German army training in preparation for the invasion of Northern Europe, but in most cases they remain nowadays in pristine conditions. Some bunkers are almost chewed away by the forest as in a bohemian Angkor, some (like Hůrka, Bouda, Hanička fortresses) are wonderfully preserved as museums. But that´s the story for our next reportage “Bike, Beer & Bunkers in the Eagle´s mountains”.
Following the infamous Munich Agreement of 1938, Nazi Germany formally annexed Sudetenland and these technically advanced military structures were untouched. Some bunkers were partially destroyed by the German army training in preparation for the invasion of Northern Europe, but in most cases they remain nowadays in pristine conditions. Some bunkers are almost chewed away by the forest as in a bohemian Angkor, some (like Hůrka, Bouda, Hanička fortresses) are wonderfully preserved as museums. But that´s the story for our next reportage “Bike, Beer & Bunkers in the Eagle´s mountains”.
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The sleepy village of in Doubice offers a condensed time-travel experience without computer graphics: traditional farms, a wooden firemen tower, and above all the unique “Stara Hospoda” which welcomes you with a stunning array of surrealistic wooden sculptures inspired by the bohemian folk traditions. Great place to enjoy a tasty gulash and krkovice amidst a bewildering collection of vintage collectibles including an array of weaponry and serious rockets worth an army museum.
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During the socialist years and in recent times, the whole area suffered from the closure of many mines and a general economic recession, with a high rate of unemployment. As in many other cases around the country, also most of the breweries were either nationalised or run out of business, such as Pivovar Česká Kamenice: the once imposing facility is almost fell into ruins but it is currently under renovation and recently re-opened a small restaurant, pizzeria (not too bad considering the rest of local food offers…) and “Palírna” (distillery) where they serve hoppy and pleasant 10° and 12° pilsner.
Another interesting spot but with a totally different look is Křinický pivovar in Krásná Lípa, a new and stylish brewery-restaurant which brews an interesting array of Falkenštejn-brand beer, from the classic pilsner, amber to coffee-tasting dark, Stout and a variety of seasonal brews.
Another interesting spot but with a totally different look is Křinický pivovar in Krásná Lípa, a new and stylish brewery-restaurant which brews an interesting array of Falkenštejn-brand beer, from the classic pilsner, amber to coffee-tasting dark, Stout and a variety of seasonal brews.
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However, the heavyweight in this remote appendix of Bohemia is Pivovar Kocour in Varnsdorf .
Their peculiarity is to offer a wide range of beer specials, from strong American-style lagers to top fermented beers like weizen, stout, saison, pale ale. It is impossible to try them all, also because (unfortunately) they do not offer beer tasting and the staff is not particularly helpful in recommending choices.
So the best way is to grab some small beers, go for a walk around their mini-farm (beware the black swans, the male is very protective!) and bring home some more bottles with the funky tomcat logo, as we did. Stay tuned for more Cook & Meet gourmet experiences!
Their peculiarity is to offer a wide range of beer specials, from strong American-style lagers to top fermented beers like weizen, stout, saison, pale ale. It is impossible to try them all, also because (unfortunately) they do not offer beer tasting and the staff is not particularly helpful in recommending choices.
So the best way is to grab some small beers, go for a walk around their mini-farm (beware the black swans, the male is very protective!) and bring home some more bottles with the funky tomcat logo, as we did. Stay tuned for more Cook & Meet gourmet experiences!
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