Landing in Malaga in a sunny, warm January afternoon quickly melts away my early morning memories of a gloomy, frozen central European airport : a short train ride (punctual and cheap with friendly staff, good start) and we dip into the atmosphere of downtown like an impatient dolphin just escaped from a cold fishbowl.
All the shops are closed for the usual long “siesta” but nevertheless everything looks so lively and welcoming that it is hard to imagine how the streets will look like with the late evening “movida”.
The perfect way to tune-in with the Mediterranean climate is a relaxing bath in the lovely “Hammam El Andalus”, a modern establishment which carefully and elegantly recreates the intimate delights of “Baños Árabes”: far from a tourist trap (actually over 70% of the clients are locals), the elegant pools and steam baths feel like a world apart and the 2 hours of the delightful treatment pass simply too fast. We can finally experience first-hand the blissful atmosphere of the ancient baths, heritage of Roman and Moorish habits, which constituted both a secluded and discreet meeting point and the ritual religious ablution in the heart of the Alcazar.
All the shops are closed for the usual long “siesta” but nevertheless everything looks so lively and welcoming that it is hard to imagine how the streets will look like with the late evening “movida”.
The perfect way to tune-in with the Mediterranean climate is a relaxing bath in the lovely “Hammam El Andalus”, a modern establishment which carefully and elegantly recreates the intimate delights of “Baños Árabes”: far from a tourist trap (actually over 70% of the clients are locals), the elegant pools and steam baths feel like a world apart and the 2 hours of the delightful treatment pass simply too fast. We can finally experience first-hand the blissful atmosphere of the ancient baths, heritage of Roman and Moorish habits, which constituted both a secluded and discreet meeting point and the ritual religious ablution in the heart of the Alcazar.
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Every street corner can offer an improvised flamenco guitar show so we let the instinct guide us in the maze of attractive streets winding around the shining avenue Calle Marqués de Larios, where we spot the (very) pink and very cute “Café´Lepanto”, which we immediately elect as tomorrow´s breakfast spot, the pastries are simply irresistible!
We decide to indulge in the Arabic reminiscence of the ancient Moorish kingdoms with a tasting dinner at “Mosaico” restaurant, topped by an unusual “pastela” chicken pie decorated with (overwhelmingly) abundant amount of cinnamon and sugar...mmhhh… “interesting”. The young crowds start to fill the street and the restaurants at 10 pm but, blame the early morning wake-up call, we decide to save our energies for next day´s exploration of the Alcazaba, the city´s most important landmark.
We decide to indulge in the Arabic reminiscence of the ancient Moorish kingdoms with a tasting dinner at “Mosaico” restaurant, topped by an unusual “pastela” chicken pie decorated with (overwhelmingly) abundant amount of cinnamon and sugar...mmhhh… “interesting”. The young crowds start to fill the street and the restaurants at 10 pm but, blame the early morning wake-up call, we decide to save our energies for next day´s exploration of the Alcazaba, the city´s most important landmark.
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The Alcazaba is the best-preserved Moorish fortress palace in Spain: constructed on the ruins of a Roman fortification in the 8th century by the first Emir of Cordoba, its original purpose was as a defence against pirates, thanks to its commanding position with views over the city and all the way to Africa.
The imposing walled city retains a distinct feel from its more famous, younger neighbours, the Alcazar of Sevilla and the Alhambra of Granada build three centuries afterwards. Most notably, a much lower amount of tourists, which guarantee a quite intimate and peaceful visit, strolling around shady gardens, cuddled by the constant flow of water thanks to an ingenious system of gutters and pipes and enjoying magnificent views over the harbour and the flamboyant baroque Cathedral.
The imposing walled city retains a distinct feel from its more famous, younger neighbours, the Alcazar of Sevilla and the Alhambra of Granada build three centuries afterwards. Most notably, a much lower amount of tourists, which guarantee a quite intimate and peaceful visit, strolling around shady gardens, cuddled by the constant flow of water thanks to an ingenious system of gutters and pipes and enjoying magnificent views over the harbour and the flamboyant baroque Cathedral.
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The main food market "Atarazanas" is a masterpiece starting from its elegant glass and cast iron building, completely renovated in 2010: crossing the ancient Moorish gate is like entering an enchanted realm of exotic flavours, a kaleidoscope of familiar although surprising colours and shapes: giant bowls of „zuvvapa iberica“ and chorizo drenched in orange fat, Noah arks overflowing all kinds of olives and pickled vegetables, the whole Atlantic and Mediterranean sea stranded on lively stalls where expert hands manage fish with the deadly elegance of a ninja.
Unlike other famous markets like “La Boquería” in Barcelona or “Mercado de San Miguel” in Madrid which became a gastronomical showcase, Atarazanas market still retains an authentic and low-key local verve.
Unlike other famous markets like “La Boquería” in Barcelona or “Mercado de San Miguel” in Madrid which became a gastronomical showcase, Atarazanas market still retains an authentic and low-key local verve.
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Grazing tapas along the many stalls is undoubtedly the best way to enjoy this unique bazar of taste and perfumes: we started at the “Marisqueria El Yerno”, tempted by the juicy and spicy “pincho de gambas a la plancha” (prawns skewers) with the chef´s secret smoked peppers powder, grilled calamari, “boquerones al limón“ (anchovies with lemon), “pulpo” (octopus salad), “jibia” (cuttlefish), delicate “vieiras” (scallops), super-fresh oysters and razor clams “navajas”. The best advice is to follow your instinct, check where and what the locals eat and, if you are attracted by the look of some dish, just point it out at the waiter, get a tasting “tapa” or a full “ración” and start chatting with everyone around in all possible languages. Tapas are inexpensive (around 1 to 5 Euros), so plenty of options for an affordable and memorable self-driven culinary journey.
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According to the Spanish culinary bonton, eating paella for dinner sounds as sinful as sipping a cappuccino after lunch for an Italian, so indulge in your paella before leaving this heaven with your third or fourth “copa” of crisp Cruzcampo or Alhambra beer and a last sip of Málaga fortified wine, a nectar created by marrying Moscatel and Pedro Ximénez grapes.
We will re-plan our staying in Spain just to have one more go in this place, but now time to head towards the heart of Andalusian white villages and the “Frontera” !
We will re-plan our staying in Spain just to have one more go in this place, but now time to head towards the heart of Andalusian white villages and the “Frontera” !
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