The shore is barren, no sign of sunbeds and of the usual paraphernalia of facilities catering the lobsterized skins of the north European pensioners flocking the Mediterranean coast nearby like tired migrating birds.
There are plenty of ways to spot tourists from locals, like the single eyebrow of Spanish men and the “too many colors” of their ladies´ clothes, however the funniest is their look of dismay and confusion while looking for a place, any place, to eat at the normal non-Spanish hours.
They frenetically check their watches and stare at the closed shutters of the many restaurants laying elbow to elbow, covered inviting seafood menus and piles of empty chairs, and think “what the hack, it is 1 pm and there is no chance for lunch? Not yet, or not any more?” Understanding the concept of “siesta” sounds easy to say, but a few times we passed in front of a restaurant packed with people having lunch at 5 pm, then (maybe) opening for dinner from 10 pm or not opening at all, trying to get a beer in the afternoon when all the bars close down like in an improvised profane Ramadan.
We migrate to the liveliest pub in town, “Soul Café” (which will become our favourite hang out for the Friday nights live gigs), where everyone spends a noisy and alcohol-fuelled night in this ancient Moorish court with live music and dj sets. Time to crash in the bed, still with the blaze of the ocean under my eyelids.
For a light and tasty lunch, just pick up a lively bar outside of the Moorish city walls, where prices are even more affordable and the mood is totally local. Our favourite by (very) far is “El Tapeo”, which every day offers a different selection of 10 tapas including excellent octopus salad , magnificent grilled squids, green peppers filled with tortillas, crunchy breaded fish fillets and more delights, with the best topping: a very friendly service and lively atmosphere.
Only locals fills the noisy room and the street tables of this perfect late lunch spot where we regularly eat for less than 5 € each including 2 beers and 3 delicious tapas. So far, among the best food we had in Spain.
Later on, you can soak the afternoon sun and listen to some good music in the courtyard of “El Murciano”, head for a stroll or some scenic jogging along the wooden beach path and relax in “Café del Mar” to watch the world go by, play with sparrows and listen to quality chill-out music. Just a warning: after the second “caña” of Cruz Campo, San Miguel or Estrella Galicia beer, you won´t leave your chair or couch for any reason in the world.