Have you ever noticed how many blond, blue eyed Italians you come across in south Italy? Phoenician traders, “Magna Grecia” colonists, Roman legions, Byzantine monks, Norman knights, Franc and German emperors, Arabic conquerors, Turkish pirates, French and Spanish kings compose the kaleidoscope of physical, artistic, linguistic, even psychological differences which you perceive through an Italian journey.
Adding very complex and fragmented geographical patters, the result is an incredible variety of food habits and regional recipes, of course.
On their way back from the Crusades in the Holy Land in the 10th century, fierce Norman knights (the same posse which sailed from Normandy and conquered England in 1066 …) offered their swords to the Lombards protecting them from Saracen attacks in exchange of fertile feuds, starting the period of the so called “Norman kingdom of Sicily”. Through a series of battles and complex dynastic events, Norman and Swabian (south Germany) emperors ruled for centuries the Italian area south of Naples leaving behind a trail of influences and of course genetic heritage.
Travelling through Puglia, you meet coastal watchtowers, churches, walled cities and castles built by these northern rulers, the most famous of which is Castel del Monte.
Adding very complex and fragmented geographical patters, the result is an incredible variety of food habits and regional recipes, of course.
On their way back from the Crusades in the Holy Land in the 10th century, fierce Norman knights (the same posse which sailed from Normandy and conquered England in 1066 …) offered their swords to the Lombards protecting them from Saracen attacks in exchange of fertile feuds, starting the period of the so called “Norman kingdom of Sicily”. Through a series of battles and complex dynastic events, Norman and Swabian (south Germany) emperors ruled for centuries the Italian area south of Naples leaving behind a trail of influences and of course genetic heritage.
Travelling through Puglia, you meet coastal watchtowers, churches, walled cities and castles built by these northern rulers, the most famous of which is Castel del Monte.
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Driving from the magnificent sandy beaches of the Ionic coast of Puglia to the Gargano peninsula on the Adriatic sea, the majestic shape of the castle emerges from the olive tree fields like a spacecraft just landed on top of a hill covered with pine trees.
The closer you get to the imposing structure, the more you perceive a sense of peace, dignity, balance: the meaning of number “8” according to ancient numerology. Designed not as a true fortress but as a centre of knowledge, or as relaxing retreat and hunting lodge by Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II of Hohenstaufen, this Unesco world heritage listed masterpiece is a casket of exoteric, philosophical and mystical meanings, starting from its perfectly octagonal shape with 8 towers build according to the complex proportion of the "golden number" 1,61803...
The closer you get to the imposing structure, the more you perceive a sense of peace, dignity, balance: the meaning of number “8” according to ancient numerology. Designed not as a true fortress but as a centre of knowledge, or as relaxing retreat and hunting lodge by Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II of Hohenstaufen, this Unesco world heritage listed masterpiece is a casket of exoteric, philosophical and mystical meanings, starting from its perfectly octagonal shape with 8 towers build according to the complex proportion of the "golden number" 1,61803...
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From the castle hills you enjoy a commanding view of the whole plains and the cobalt blue horizon bordered by the coastal lagoons and salt production facilities of Margherita di Savoia, the entry gate to Gargano Peninsula: a bump on the Italian “heel” covered by dense pristine forests with a necklace of scenic coves and secluded white beaches rated among the most beautiful in the world.
A short hike and some negotiations with the owners of the coastal properties will allow access to magnificent spots like Baia dei Faraglioni, a scenic bay hosting two imposing rocks named the “Scissors” and “Diomedes” after the Greek hero, which face steep white cliffs and crystal clear waters, and the natural rock arc of Baia di San Felice, ideally to be explored by fins & boat.
A short hike and some negotiations with the owners of the coastal properties will allow access to magnificent spots like Baia dei Faraglioni, a scenic bay hosting two imposing rocks named the “Scissors” and “Diomedes” after the Greek hero, which face steep white cliffs and crystal clear waters, and the natural rock arc of Baia di San Felice, ideally to be explored by fins & boat.
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A walk in the lively street market of Vieste is a journey through Mediterranean delights: “provola” and “caciocavallo” cheese shaped (again) into an “8” by a rope used to transport them in pairs over the saddle, olives and marinated vegetables prepared in a multitude of shapes, flavours, dressings, ribbons of garlic and chilli suitable both for cooking and as traditional talisman and evil-eye shield. The cutest delight is a salad of baby octopuses, whose eight curled tentacles and Alien-like head deserve a place in a foodie extravaganza menu.
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A unique feature of the rugged, scenic coast between Vieste and Peschici are the weird wooden structures perched on rocks, halfway between a wooden spider and a fossil spacecraft: the 13 “trabucchi” are ingenuous fishing devices built in the 19th and 20th century to operate a huge rectangular net in full comfort through man-powered winches, and remind a bit the medieval giant catapults bearing the same name.
These charming machines are now mostly converted into scenic restaurants, but in some cases are still operational as "Al Trabucco da Mimi´", a living legend of the fishing community. Romantic beyond words at sunset, the restaurant is the ideal location for our “last supper” in Puglia with a choice of fish served raw according to the local habit, in our case raw swordfish, scampi, seafood risotto and fresh tagliatelle with grouper ragu´ paired with a “Paolo Leo” Chardonnay.
These charming machines are now mostly converted into scenic restaurants, but in some cases are still operational as "Al Trabucco da Mimi´", a living legend of the fishing community. Romantic beyond words at sunset, the restaurant is the ideal location for our “last supper” in Puglia with a choice of fish served raw according to the local habit, in our case raw swordfish, scampi, seafood risotto and fresh tagliatelle with grouper ragu´ paired with a “Paolo Leo” Chardonnay.
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If you are lucky enough (as in our case) you get the chance to participate to the ancient ritual of night fishing. Mimi´ is a very special fisherman who does not like boats: he coordinates the land-based operations of 3 generations of his offspring in the lifting of the fishing net and scooping out the catch with a special basket, showing us the different types of fish which will end up in next “frittura mista” and grill.
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