Colorful traditional costumes, lively bagpipe music and tasty heart-warming food delicacies: welcome to “Chodské slavnosti”, one of the biggest and oldest folk festivals in the Czech Republic.
Every year in the first weekend after 10th August (St. Laurence´s day), the charming historic town of Domažlice (around 40 km south of Pilsen) dresses herself in red ribbons and white laces to host a very enjoyable kermesse of performances of the Chods people: originally free peasants, the locals were asked to carry out an armed guard service of the western Bohemian border and above all guarantee the safety of the lucrative trade route leading to the Bavarian town of Furth im Wald. For this service, in the 14th century over 300 families acquired royal privileges and an outstanding position in the feudal system, in particular personal freedom and servitude only to the king.
Every year in the first weekend after 10th August (St. Laurence´s day), the charming historic town of Domažlice (around 40 km south of Pilsen) dresses herself in red ribbons and white laces to host a very enjoyable kermesse of performances of the Chods people: originally free peasants, the locals were asked to carry out an armed guard service of the western Bohemian border and above all guarantee the safety of the lucrative trade route leading to the Bavarian town of Furth im Wald. For this service, in the 14th century over 300 families acquired royal privileges and an outstanding position in the feudal system, in particular personal freedom and servitude only to the king.
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The most notable heritage of a rich historic background are the colorful dresses “kroj”, red and white with colorful aprons with different hairdo according to the marital status for the ladies, and sleek yellow trousers with elegantly decorated blue vests for the gents .
We were particularly fascinated by entire families wearing the full-scale costumes, including delightful caps for toddlers and even dolls wearing the Chods outfits, offering scenes straight out of a 300 years old countryside tale.
We were particularly fascinated by entire families wearing the full-scale costumes, including delightful caps for toddlers and even dolls wearing the Chods outfits, offering scenes straight out of a 300 years old countryside tale.
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A truly interesting and touching moment is the Sunday morning mass celebrated on the shady field in front of the church of St. Laurence with commanding views over scenic rolling hills.
With a twist of historic irony, the same town was the setting of the shocking, final defeat of the Catholic crusaders against the proto-protestant Hussite movement: on 14th August 1431, the imperial army was besieging Domažlice but panicked hearing the battle hymn of Hussite forces "Ktož jsú boží bojovníci" ("Ye Who are Warriors of God"). Even the papal legate Cardinal Giuliano Cesarini fled and lost his whole outfit, luggage and secret correspondence. The Chods are currently fervently catholic, in a Country ranking among the world´s most atheistic. Power of centuries of fierce counter-reformation persecutions by the Jesuits…
With a twist of historic irony, the same town was the setting of the shocking, final defeat of the Catholic crusaders against the proto-protestant Hussite movement: on 14th August 1431, the imperial army was besieging Domažlice but panicked hearing the battle hymn of Hussite forces "Ktož jsú boží bojovníci" ("Ye Who are Warriors of God"). Even the papal legate Cardinal Giuliano Cesarini fled and lost his whole outfit, luggage and secret correspondence. The Chods are currently fervently catholic, in a Country ranking among the world´s most atheistic. Power of centuries of fierce counter-reformation persecutions by the Jesuits…
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The festival is intimately connected with the more prosaic “Vavřineckou pout” or St. Laurence´s Fair, devoted to local folk music and dance groups: 5 stages with over 20 kinds of performance and a plethora of the typical typical “Chodský koláč”, rounded cakes with creamy topping with plum jam and poppy seeds. For the real taste of the rich local cuisine in a truly friendly environment, the atmospheric tavern Historická krčma U Meluzíny is a must.
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Of course we didn´t miss the chance to continue our epic quest to visit all the hundreds of Czech breweries: directly at the fair, Pilsen´s Purkmistr brewery served hoppy 12° directly from a magnificent vintage “Praga” truck, once the backbone of the Czechoslovak public transport network.
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Right in front of Horšovský Týn castle, KH Gurman brews quite average 10° and 12°, a good starting point for a rewarding 50-km biking trip across dense forests and rolling hills towards Bizon in Čižice: just 10 km south of the beer capital Pilsen, this cyclist-friendly restaurant makes a hoppy 11° (my personal favorite of the trip), a (too) bitter amber 13° and the best pickled “nakladani hermelin” cheese of the season. Coming back soon for more gourmet adventures !
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